Latin name : Philodendron spp.
Family name : Araceae
All parts of the Philodendron are toxic and should be avoided, as they contain calcium oxalate crystals in the form of raphides (needle-shaped crystals which can tear the soft tissues of the throat). Although the effect on reptiles is unclear, it is known that mammals who eat this plant can suffer painful oedema, and a sense of burning to the mouth and throat. The flowers are fairly insignificant and usually white, but they can also be a greenish or a slightly reddish color.
Characteristics:
Philodendrons come in a multitude of varieties, with all sorts of leaf shapes and colors, most philos can be grown in low light. Some grow in a bush form like the selloum. Some varieties are trained to grow on a pole to create a slender upright shaped plant. These pole plants must be continuously pruned to keep the vines on the pole. If the pole is wooden it will eventually rot, causing the plant to lean over. Styrofoam poles will break if you're not careful.
Pruning:
These fast growing plants have vining tendencies. Most people prefer a full, leafy looking plant, so it is important to trim back new growth on the vine tips. This keeps the plant full and helps prevent the plant from looking stringy.
Philodendrons make great houseplants. They thrive in temperatures between 60 and 72 degrees and they require less light than most plants. It is best to grow them in pots of soil, but some, such as, P. oxycardium, will live for a long time in water to which a few pieces of charcoal have been added.
The leaves should be cleaned with soapy water or an insecticide once in a while to remove dust and to control insects. Plants that have a good supply of roots will benefit from applications of a dilute liquid fertilizer every week or two.
When these plants are grown in a greenhouse, they prosper in a humid, tropical atmosphere. The minimum night temperature should be 60 degrees and the minimum day temperature should be 5-10 degrees higher. A damp atmosphere can be maintained by frequently wetting the floor and benches in the greenhouse and by spraying the foliage several times a day in the summer.
During the winter months, less humidity is required, but the air must not become too dry. From mid-February to mid-November they need to be shaded from direct sun. Whether they're grown in a home or greenhouse, they need well-drained pots that aren't too large for the plants. They do best when their roots are slightly cramped, but not too tightly packed that they form a tight ball of roots.
Their soil should be a mixture consisting of equal parts of turfy loam, sand and peat moss, with some chopped charcoal and broken crocks or brick added. Potting should be done in late winter or spring. Fill the pots one quarter of the way with crocks, which should then be covered with turf or coarse leaves to prevent the drainage from becoming clogged. Place enough soil in the pot so that when the plant is set in position, the tops of the roots are 1-2 inches below the rim of the pot. Place more soil around the ball and pack it moderately firm, leaving enough space at the top for watering. Newly potted plants need to be carefully watered.
Allow the soil to become almost dry before watering. Follow this procedure until the roots have grown into the new soil, after which the soil can be kept more evenly moist. It's especially beneficial to newly planted Philodendrons to spray their leaves two or three times a day.
When they're grown in a greenhouse bed, a hole should be dug 18-24 inches deep. Put 6 inches of broken brick or coarse cinders in the bottom and cover that with turfy loam or rough leaves. Then fill with the soil mixture as described above. Firm it and allow it to settle. A few days later, take the plant out of its pot and remove the old crocks and loose soil from its roots and set it in the prepared bed. Pat the soil fairly firm and water it well. Most kinds of Philodendrons need supports to cling to. Pieces of rough bark or stakes wrapped with a thick layer of sphagnum moss will serve well.
There are over 200 species of philodendrons, most nativeto the West Indies and the tropical regions of the Americas. They are cousinsto peace lilies (members of the Arum family) and on rare occasions, sendup a bloom like a calla lily. They are prized as indoor plants because theyare so easy to grow, easy to propagate and have such interesting foliage.
All philodendrons can be classified as either a vining type or an arborescent type. Some are also self-heading, branching out without any pinching or pruning. Vining types don't really climb, but they can be attached to poles for support. Poles are typically made of slabs of bark, coarse stems of large plants such as palms or wire and moss. Vining philodendrons will send out aerial roots to cling to supports. Arborescent philodendronshave a main stem that is sturdy enough to support the foliage.
There are several varieties of philodendrons that make excellent indoor plants. The most common vining form is P. scandens. It has heart-shaped dark green leaves and is the easiest of all the philodendrons to grow. Split-leaf philodendrons (a.k.a. Monstera) have huge leaves that are deeply divided and are a lustrous dark, glossy green. It is a vining type and needs to be supported by a large pole, since it can grow in excess of 6 feet tall.Selloum has leaves that look very much like the split-leaf philodendron, but on a self-heading, arborescent plant. Its leaves radiate from a short central stem that usually stays around 3 feet tall and wide.
There are several very popular varieties of P. domesticum. They have long, narrow leaves, are compact and tend to grow rather upright. Emerald Queen has deep green leaves,Royal Queen has deep maroon foliage and Red Princess has dark maroon stalks. When it comes to philodendrons, your choices are wide.
Tips for Growing Healthy Philodendrons
What are the light requirements for philodendrons?
They prefer moderate to high light but cannot tolerate direct afternoon sun. If they are grown in lower light levels, they tend to be more open and have larger leaves.
How much water do they need?
Philodendrons need to be kept evenly moist, but not wet. Too often they are allowed to run dry. This doesn't usually kill them, but it is a stress that weakens the plants.
Do they have any special temperature requirements?
Their temperature requirements make them well suited to growing indoors. Most varieties don't like to be any cooler than 60º but would like to stay below 75º.
Do philodendrons need much humidity?
They prefer average to high humidity. Mist the leaves two or three times a week or use a humidifier or humidity tray.
How much fertilizer do they require?
Feed them once a month in the spring and summer with a water soluble or liquid fertilizer, half strength. Do not feed in the late fall or winter.
What type of soil do they prefer?
Philodendrons grow best in a quality peat-based potting soil such as Bachman's Exceloam.
When should I repot my philodendrons?
When they are young and actively growing, repot them each spring. As they mature and are too large to handle, simply replace several inches of the top soil. Be careful to support the plant when repotting to avoid damage.
Will they need any grooming?
Their large leaves tend to collect dust and should be gently wiped off occasionally. Leafshine products can be used.
Why do some of the lower leaves yellow?
Yellow leaves indicate too much water. Be especially careful in winternot to over water.
What makes leaves brown and dry up?
When it is too hot or too dry, leaves shrivel and brown.
What causes some leaves to look ragged and torn?
This is usually caused by sunburn. Damaged leaves should be removed.
What about black patches?
Black areas on foliage indicates the plant was exposed to temperatures that were too low.
Why would a philodendron fail to grow?
The plant is probably being kept were it is too dark.
What causes the leaves to develop brown tips?
Brown tips usually indicate the plant is being kept too dry.
Do they tend toward diseases?
Root and stem rot can result from over watering.
Are they susceptible to insect problems?
Occasionally they will have a few aphids, mealy bugs or spider mites. Use an insecticide labeled for indoor plants.What causes some leaves not to split?
Sometimes the plant is mislabeled, but it can also be immature leaves.If the leaves look pale, what is the problem?
It usually indicates that the plant is not getting enough fertilizer. If you are feeding according to directions, check the soil pH. It may be too high or low and keeping the plant from utilizing the fertilizer.
source: bachmans.com
Really excellent and helpful information thanks !
ReplyDeleteI just bought a rescue plant at a very reduced rate because I lived the colour of the leaves and stems. It is a Royal Red. I googled to see if it needed supporting and what is growing and nutritional requirements are. Your site has the best info.
ReplyDeletethanks for the comment Marion...
DeleteI rescued several under watered plants at work and one was a philodendron. There were two plants in the large pot (13" x13" deep)and the small one did not make it. the larger one is doing ok although I would like to see larger leaves, maybe that is their size though 4"X 6-7".
ReplyDeleteMy question is why do the leaves seem to stick in their sheath to the point where if you don't help them out they come out damaged and two to three leave get backed up inside each other.
Got a solution to this?
Cheers,
Wayne
thanks Wayne.. when I worked in corp America (work virtual office now) they called me the "Plant doctor" because co-workers and associates would bring me their rundown, uncared for plants and I'd nurse them back to health..
ReplyDelete